Friday, February 24, 2023

Native Food - Buffalo Tongues


"By the time the wagon trains reached buffalo (bison) country, most of the emigrants longingly anticipated a meal of freshly cooked meat. Salted meat had its place, but it could not replace the fresh for weary travelers. The emigrants eagerly devoured the buffalo that had already been so generous in providing fuel for baking bread and cooking beans. The enticing fresh meat with its assertive flavor was just what they thought they wanted...testimonies from pleased diners indicated that after indulging in this gastronomic treat, almost everyone became an instant aficionado. 

"I think there is no beef in the world equal to a fine buffalo cow--such flavor so rich, so juicy, it makes the mouth water to think of it," noted Charles Stanton...According to Edwin Bryant, the choicest cuts of a young fat buffalo cow were the rump, tenderloin, liver, heart, tongue, hump, and "and intestinal vessel or organ, commonly called by hunters the marrow-gut,' which anatomically speaking, is the chylo-poetic duct...Bryant was describing the intestine that mountain cooks used for making sausage...Buffalo meat, darker and coarser than beef, was either fried in a pan or broiled directly over the hot coals. 

Bones and other parts were added to the soup pot. The hump was cut up to eat immediately or made into jerky. Oner part reported that they buried the large bones in the coals of buffalo chips and in an hour had some delicious baked marrow. Tongues were smoked or pickled. Buffalo tongue became a gourmet food and was shipped to restaurants throughout the country, its popularity contributing to the demise of the buffalo. 

Patty Sessions gathered dry weeds to place on the dung before broiling her family's buffalo steaks. Carvalho's companions copied the Indians: "They cut the buffalo meat in strips about an inch thick, four wide, and twelve to fifteen long. The stick is then inserted in the meat, as boys to a kite stick; one end of the stick is then stuck in the ground, near the fire, and the process of roasting is complete--the natural juice of the meat is retained, in the this manner, and I think it the most preferable way to cook game." During the meal the men would simply cut a slice off the piece roasting on the stick. 

Buffalo meat was so versatile that Narcissa Whitman boasted that her husband had a different way of preparing each piece of meat. Unfortunately, she did not record the recipes; she did, however, observe that her husband liked the taste of buffalo so much that he now began to do most of the cooking. 

Yet there were dissenters. "While here we had buffalo meat. We did not like it very well. It is much coarser than beef," wrote Lucia Williams...Knowing that they must always plan ahead, emigrants preserved the buffalo meat by "jerking" it. In that process the meat is cut into long strips about one inch wide and then dried in the sun or over a fire."

Wagon Wheel Kitchens: Food on the Oregaon Trail, Jacqueline Williams [University Press of Kansas: Lawrence KS] 1993 (p. 150-3)

Monday, February 20, 2023

Spain & Portugal Claim the Lands of the Natives in South America?

 

The Treaty of Tordesillas June 7 1494

King John of Portugal was not satisfied with the provisions of the Bull Inter Caetera, and by the Treaty of Tordesillas persuaded the Spanish crown to consent to moving the line of demarcation 370 leagues west from the Cape Verde Islands. This change gave Portugal a claim to Brazil. John II (1455-1495), was King of Portugal from 1481 until his death in 1495. He is known for re-establishing the power of the Portuguese monarchy, reinvigorating the Portuguese economy, and renewing his country's colonization in the Americas, Africa and Asia.

Map of Approval for The Treaty of Tordesillas June 7 1494

The Treaty of Tordesillas. . . Whereas a certain controversy exists between the said lords, their constituents, as to what lands, of all those discovered in the ocean sea up to the present day, the date of this treaty, pertain to each one of the said parts respectively; therefore, for the sake of peace and concord, and for the preservation of the relationship and love of the said King of Portugal for the said King and Queen of Castile, Aragon, etc. it being the pleasure of their Highnesses, they . . . covenanted and agreed that a boundary or straight line be determined and drawn north and south, from pole to pole, on the said ocean sea, from the Arctic to the Antarctic pole. This boundary or line shall be drawn straight, as aforesaid, at a distant of three hundred and seventy leagues west of the Cape Verde Islands, being calculated by degrees. . . . And all lands, both islands and mainlands, found and discovered already, or to be found and discovered hereafter, by the said King of Portugal and by his vessels on this side of the said line and bound determined as above, toward the east, in either north or south latitude, on the eastern side of the said bound, provided the said bound is not crossed, shall belong to and remain in the possession of, and pertain forever to, the said King of Portugal and his successors. And all other lands, both islands and mainlands, found or to be found hereafter. . . . by the said King and Queen of Castile, Aragon, etc. and by their vessels, on the western side of the said bound, determined as above, after having passed the said bound toward the west, in either its north or south latitude, shall belong to . . . the said King and Queen of Castile, Leon, etc. and to their successors.

Item, the said representatives promise and affirm . . . that from this date no ships shall be dispatched namely as follows: the said King and Queen of Castile, Leon, Aragon etc. for this part of the bound . . . which pertains to the said King of Portugal . . . nor the said King of Portugal to the other side of the said bound which pertains to the said King and Queen of Castile, Aragon, etc.-for the purpose of discovering and seeking any mainlands or islands, or for the purpose of trade, barter, or conquest of any kind. But should it come to pass that the said ships of the said King and Queen of Castile . . . on sailing thus on this side of the said bound, should discover any mainlands or islands in the region pertaining, as abovesaid, to the said King of Portugal, such mainlands or islands shall belong forever to the said King of Portugal and his heirs, and their Highnesses shall order them to be surrendered to him immediately. And if the said ships of the said King of Portugal discover any islands or mainlands in the regions of the said King and Queen of Castile . . . all such lands shall belong to and remain forever in the possession of the said King and Queen of Castile . . . and their heirs, and the said King of Portugal shall cause such lands to be surrendered immediately. . . .

And by this present agreement, they . . . entreat our most Holy Father that his Holiness be pleased to confirm and approve this said agreement, according to what is set forth therein; and that he order his bulls in regard to it to be issued to the parties or to whichever of the parties may solicit them with the tenor of this agreement incorporated therein, and that he lay his censures upon those who shall violate or oppose it at any time whatsoever. . . .

Sunday, February 19, 2023

Richard Hakluyt (1553-1616) to Queen Elizabeth I - England Should Take the Natives' Lands in N America

 

Richard Hakluyt (1553-1616) was an early proponent of English colonization. This particular document was written to convince Queen Elizabeth I to support the colonization schemes of Sir Walter Raleigh, and to encourage English merchants and gentry to invest in those enterprises.

1. The soil yieldth and may be made to yield all the several commodities of Europe, and of all kingdomes, dominions, and territories that England tradeth with that by trade of merchandise cometh into this realm

2. The passage thither and home is neither to long nor to short but easy and to be made twice in the year. . . .

5. And where England now for certain hundreth years last passed, by the peculiar commodity of wools, and of later years by clothing of the same, hath raised itself from meaner state to greatr wealth and much highr honour, mighty and power than before, to the equaling of the princes of the same to the greatst potentates of this part of the world it cometh now so to passe, that by the great endeavour of the increase of the trade of wools in Spain and in the West Indies, now daily more and more multiplying that the wools of England, and the clothe made of the same, will become base, and every day more base then other; which, prudently weighed yet behoveth this realm if it mean not to return to former olde means and baseness but to stand in present and late former honour, glory, and force, and not negligently and sleepingly to slide into beggery, to foresee and to plant at Norumbega [New England] or some like place, were it not for any thing else but for the hope of the vent of our wool endraped, the principal and in effect the only enriching continuing natural commodity of this realm. And effectually pursuing that course, we shall not only find on that tract of land, and especially in that firm northward (to whom warm clothe shall be right welcome), an ample vent, but also shall, from the north side of that firm, find out known and unknown islands and dominions replenished with people that may fully vent the abundance of that our commodity, that else will in few years wax of none or of small value by foreign abundance &c.; so as by this enterprise we shall shun the imminent mischief hanging over our heads that else must needs fall upon the realm without breach of peace or sword drawn against this realm by any foreign state; and not offer our ancient riches to scornful neighbors at home, nor sell the same in effect for nothing, as we shall shortly, if presently it be not provided for. . . .

6. This enterprise may stay the Spanish King from flowing over all the face of that waste firm of America, if we seat and plant there in time, in time I say, and we by planting shall [prevent] him from making more short and more safe returns out of the noble ports of the purposed places of our planting, then by any possibility he can from the part of the firm that now his navys by ordinary courses come from, in this that there is no comparison between the ports of the coasts that the King of Spain doth now possess and use and the ports of the coasts that our nation is to possess by planting at Norumbega, . . . And England possessing the purposed place of planting, her Majesty may, by the benefit of the seat having won good and royall havens, have plenty of excellent trees for masts of goodly timber to build ships and to make great navys, of pitch, tar, hemp, and all things incident for a navy royall, and that for no price, and without money or request. How easy a matter may yet be to this realm, swarming at this day with valiant youths, rusting and hurtful by lack of employment, and having good makers of cable and of all sorts of cordage, and the best and most cunning shipwrights of the world, to be lords of all those seas, and to spoil Phillip's Indian navy, and to deprive him of yearly passage of his treasure into Europe, and consequently to abate the pride of Spain and of the suporter of the great Anti-Christ of Rome and to pull him down in equality to his neighbour princes, and consequently to cut of the common mischiefs that come to all Europe by the peculiar abundance of his Indian treasure, and this without difficulty.

7. . . . this realm shall have by that mean ships of great burden and of great strength for the defense of this realm, and for the defense of that new seat as need shall require, and with all great increase of perfect seamen, which great princes in time of wars want, and which kind of men are neither nourished in few days nor in few years. . . .

10. No foreign commodity that comes into England comes without payment of custom once, twice, or thrice, before it come into the realm, and so all foreign commodities become dearer to the subjects of this realm; and by this course to Norumbega foreign princes customs are avoided; and the foreign commodities cheaply purchased, they become cheap to the subjects of England, to the common benefit of the people, and to the saving of great treasure in the realm; whereas now the realm become the poor by the purchasing of foreign commodities in so great a mass at so excessive prices.

11. At the first traffic with the people of those parts, the subjects of this realm for many years shall change many cheap commodities of these parts for things of high valor there not esteemed; and this to the great enriching of the realm, if common use fail not.

12. By the great plenty of those regions the merchants and their factors shall lie there cheap, buy and repair their ships cheap, and shall return at pleasure without stay or restraint of foreign prince; whereas upon stays and restraints the merchant raiseth his charge in sale over of his ware; and, buying his wares cheap, he may maintain trade with small stock, and without taking up money upon interest; and so he shall be rich and not subject to many hazards, but shall be able to afford the commodities for cheap prices to all subjects of the realm.

13. By making of ships and by preparing of things for the same, by making of cables and cordage, by planting of vines and olive trees, and by making of wine and oil, by husbandry, and by thousands of things there to be done, infinite numbers of the English nation may be set on work, to the unburdening of the realm with many that now live chargeable to the state at home.

14. If the sea coast serve for making of salt, and the inland for wine, oils, oranges, lemons, figs, &c., and for making of iron, all which with much more is hoped, without sword drawn, we shall cut the comb of the French, of the Spanish, of the Portingal, and of enemies, and of doubtful friends, to the abating of their wealth and force, and to the great saving of the wealth of the realm. . . .

16. Wee shall by planting there enlarge the glory of the gospel, and from England plant sincere religion, and provide a safe and a sure place to receive people from all parts of the world that are forced to flee for the truth of God's word.

17. If frontier wars there chance to arise, and if thereupon we shall fortify, yet will occasion the training up of our youth in the discipline of war, and make a number fit for the service of the wars and for the defense of our people there and at home.

18. The Spaniards govern in the Indies with all pride and tyranny; and like as when people of contrary nature at the sea enter into gallies, where men are tied as slaves, all yell and cry with one voice, Liberta, liberta, as desirous of liberty and freedom, so no doubt whensoever the Queen of England, a prince of such clemency, shall seat upon that firm of America, and shall be reported throughout all that tract to use the natural people there with all humanity, curtesy, and freedom, they will yield themselves to her government, and revolt clean from the Spaniard, and specially when they shall understand that she hath a noble navy, and that she aboundeth with a people most valiant for their defense. And her Majesty having Sir Frances Drake and other subjects already in credit with the Symerons, a people or great multitude already revolted from the Spanish government, she may with them and a few hundreths of this nation, trained up in the late wars of France and Flanders, bring great things to pass, and that with great ease; and this brought so about, her Majesty and her subjects may both enjoy the treasure of the mines of gold and silver, and the whole trade and all the gain of the trade of merchandisse, that now passeth thither by the Spaniards only hand, of all the commodities of Europe; which trade of merchandise only were of it self sufficient (without the benefit of the rich mine) to enrich the subjects, and by customs to fill her Majesty's coffers to the full. And if it be high policy to maintain the poor people of this realm in work, I dare affirm that if the poor people of England were five times so many as they be, yet all might be set on work in and by working linen, and such other things of merchandise as the trade into the Indies doth require.

19. The present short trades causeth the mariner to be cast of, and often to be idle, and so by poverty to fall to piracy. But this course to Norumbega being longer, and a continuance of the employment of the mariner, doth keep the mariner from idleness and from necessity; and so it cutteth of the principal actions of piracy, and the rather because no riche pray for them to take cometh directly in their course or any thing near their course.

20. Many men of excellent wits and of divers singular gifts, overthrown by . . . by some folly of youth, that are not able to live in England, may there be raised again, and do their country good service; and many needful uses there may (to great purpose) require the saving of great numbers, that for trifles may otherwise be devoured by the gallows.

21. Many soldiers and servitors, in the end of the wars, that might be hurtful to this realm, may there be unladen, to the common profit and quiet of this realm, and to our foreign benefi there, as they may be employed.

22. The frye [children] of the wandering beggars of England, that grow up idly, and hurteful and burdenous to this realm, may there be unladen, better bred up, and may people waste countries to the home and foreign benefit, and to their own more happy state.

23. If England cry out and affirm, that there is so many in all trades that one cannot live for another, as in all places they doe, this Norumbega (if it be thought so good) offereth the remedy.

Source: The Collections of the Maine Historical Society (1831-1906), Series 2, Volume 2, 152-61. 

Friday, February 17, 2023

Native Food - 9C = Settlers' Cattle Replace Indians' Bison


The interdependence between Indian and buffalo is exemplified in the words of John Fire Lame Deer (1903–1976), a Lakota holy man, wrote, "The buffalo gave us everything we needed. Without it we were nothing. Our tipis were made of his skin. His hide was our bed, our blanket, our winter coat. It was our drum, throbbing through the night, alive, holy. Out of his skin we made our water bags. His flesh strengthened us, became flesh of our flesh. Not the smallest part of it was wasted. His stomach, a red-hot stone dropped in to it, became our soup kettle. His horns were our spoons, the bones our knives, our women's awls and needles. Out of his sinews we made our bowstrings and thread. His ribs were fashioned into sleds for our children, his hoofs became rattles. His mighty skull, with the pipe leaning against it, was our sacred altar. The name of the greatest of all Sioux was Tatanka Iyotake—Sitting Bull. When you killed off the buffalo you also killed the Indian—the real, natural, "wild" Indian."

Buffalo once roamed from the eastern seaboard to Oregon & California, from Great Slave Lake in northern Alberta down into northern Mexico. Although no one will ever know exactly how many bison once inhabited North America, estimates range from 20 to 40 million.

William Temple Hornaday (1854-1937) a naturalist & a founder of the American conservation movement, who spent considerable time in the West both before & during the most severe years of buffalo slaughter, commented on the seemingly boundless bison population & the impossibility of estimating their quantity: It would have been as easy to count or to estimate the number of leaves in a forest as to calculate the number of buffaloes living at any given time during the history of the species previous to 1870.

The great herds were not decimated overnight. The slaughter was a gradual process, reaching its full momentum in the 1870s. The Native Americans of the Great Plains had relied upon & hunted buffalo for thousands of years. Without the arrival of the Caucasians—& with them the gun, the horse, & the market for bison products—it seems likely the Indians could have lived sustainably with the bison far into the future. 

However, as the plains tribes acquired horses & guns from their southern neighbors—who in turn had received them from the Spanish—the Indians were able to kill buffalo with greater ease. As the market for buffalo (particularly hides) emerged in the 1820s & as more Eastern bison hunters also came westward, the bison population began to decline precipitously.

In the 1870s, more buffalo were killed than in any other decade in history. The years of 1872, '73, & '74 were the worst. One buffalo hunter, who based his calculations on 1st hand accounts & shipping records, 4.5 million buffalo were slaughtered in that 3-year period alone.

See Buffalo Field Campaign 

"The opening up of the American plains transformed cattle farming in the United States. Until the early 1870s Texas ranchers had held great cattle drives of hundreds of thousands of lanky longhorns, urging them along a 700-mile Chisolm Trail from San Antonio direct to the stockyards of Abilene, at a rate of about a dozen miles a day. From Abilene they were taken by rail to the new meat processing plants in Chicago and Kansas City. 

But when the Great Plains were cleared of bison and the Indians who had depended upon them, the new land was opened to range cattle. What happened then was that the land Texans sent their cattle to the plains on the hoof to rest and fatten up before the last, easy journey to the stockyards, while new ranchers went into business on a massive scale, financed by the capital poured into the industry by American and foreign investors. The profits were substantial...In 1880 Kansas had sixteen times as many cattle as twenty years earlier."

Food in History

, Reay Tannahill [Three Rivers Press:New York] 1988 

Wednesday, February 15, 2023

Native Food - Duck

Peter Rindisbacher attr (1806-1834) Watercolor of Canadian Prairie Indian at lake's shore with gun in hand and a recently hunted duck on the ground. A dog is at his feet. On the far shoreline is a settlement at the base of hills. This watercolor is part of a collection of original drawings and watercolors, attributed to Peter Rindisbacher, which are owned by the State Historical Society of Wisconsin. Rindisbacher (1806-1834), who was a Swiss-born immigrant, documented Indian and frontier life in the early American and Canadian West. Rindisbacher was born at Upper Emmenthal, Switzerland, in 1806. He emigrated with his family to the settlements of Lord Selkirk on the North Red River, near the present-day Winnipeg, Canada, in 1821. By 1826 the Rindisbacher family, along with others from the settlement, had moved to southwestern Wisconsin. Rindisbacher eventually settled in St. Louis, Missouri, where he died in 1834.

Certain duck species, the food historians tell us, were indigenous to America. Others were introduced by explorers and enterprising businessmen. "Ducks have been esteemed for their culinary value by most cultures of the world, and it is possible the Indians of Central America domesticated the bird even before the Chinese did. The first European explorers were amazed at the numbers of ducks in American skies and soon commented on the delicious and distinctive flavor of the native Canvasback, whose name figures in every cookbook of the nineteenth century to the extent that no banquet would be considered successful without serving the fowl. On March 13, 1873...the arrival in New York of a Yankee clipper ship with a tiny flock of white Peking ducks--one drake and three females--signaled the beginning of a domestic industry of immense proportions. The birds were introduced to Connecticut and then to eastern Long Island, where they propagated at an encouraging rate. Domestic ducks were bought mostly by newly arrived immigrants...Only in this century did the fowl, by now called "Long Island duckling," attain gastronomic respect...In the nineteenth century wild ducks were usually eaten rare, but today domestic ducks are generally preferred cooked with a very crisp skin and served wither roasted with applesauce or in the classic French manner, with orange sauce...The wild ducks of culinary importance to Americans include the canvasback...the "mallard,"...the "black duck"...the "ring-necked duck"...and the "scooters"...also called "coots.""

Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New York] 1999 (p. 116-7)

Sunday, February 12, 2023

Native Americans Managed the Prairie for Better Bison Hunts

Alfred Jacob Miller Walters Art Gallery

Native Americans Managed the Prairie for Better Bison Hunts

Hunter-gatherer societies may have a bigger ecological impact than we thought.

ArsTechnica by Kiona N. Smith - 7/25/2018

Layers of charcoal residue buried beneath the northern Montana prairie show that pre-Columbian indigenous hunters on the Great Plains once burned patches of grassland to stimulate new growth. This created a tempting feast for bison herds, which the hunters then used to lure the bison in for the kill. And that, archaeologists say, means that even relatively small, mobile groups of hunter-gatherers can have a bigger environmental impact than they’ve been given credit for.

For a group of hunters on foot, like the ancestors of today’s Blackfeet people, one of the most efficient ways to take down large prey like the American bison is to simply chase a group of them off a cliff & then harvest the remains below. Various hunter-gatherer societies around the world have used versions of this tactic over the last several thousand years, leaving piles of animal bones (many with evidence of butchering or cracking to get at marrow) at the bases of ancient bluffs. It takes planning & coordination among many hunters—& a decent amount of luck.

In the uplands of north-central Montana, on what is today the Blackfeet Reservation, pre-Columbian hunters built mile-long stretches of rock cairns called drivelines, which hunters used to help them funnel buffalo herds from fertile grazing patches called gathering basins, toward the edge of a steep bluff overlooking a tributary of the Two Medicine River. At two different driveline sites, archaeologists have radiocarbon dated bison bones to between 900 & 1650 CE, with the majority of kills happening in the final 250 years of that period. (The sites are on a tributary flowing into the Two Medicine River from the north & another on a different tributary flowing in from the south.)

And at the same time, evidence suggests that those same hunters were burning patches of the prairie to spur the growth of fresh, tasty new grass in the gathering basins to lure in herds of hungry bison. Southern Methodist University archaeologist Christopher Roos & his colleagues, in a project designed by John Murray of the Blackfeet Tribal Historic Preservation Office, studied layers of sediment exposed in the riverbed walls of two tributaries of the Two Medicine River.

Each tributary would have had one of the drivelines & gathering basins in its drainage area, so those layers of sediment record what was happening in the gathering basin & along the driveline. At each site, the team, which included members of the Blackfeet Tribe, found between five & eight layers of charcoal residue, a sure sign of nearby prairie fires. These were radiocarbon dated to between 1100 & 1650 CE—the heyday of the bison jumps.

The prairie sometimes burns naturally, as lightning strikes can spark wildfires. This is common in years when the Great Plains have seen enough rainfall to make the grass grow well, creating ample fuel for burning. Wildfires scorched these lands long before people built drivelines to help them hunt bison, & wildfires are still a vital force on the modern prairie. But the layers of charcoal residue in the riverbed walls don’t look like the product of natural wildfire seasons.

Roos & his colleagues examined sediment layers going back at least 500 years before the first mass bison kills at either site, & they didn’t find any distinct layers of charcoal residue—just the usual traces of charcoal mixed in with normal layers of sediment. & in sediment deposited after 1650, the charcoal layers were also conspicuously absent. So there was a distinct class of fires that could lay down a substantial layer of charcoal, & these only happened during the years hunters were using the drivelines, which the archaeologists say points to a connection.

The most likely explanation is that hunters deliberately burned the gathering basins several months before a hunting season—this probably meant a spring burn to prepare for fall hunts, or perhaps a fall burn to prepare for spring hunts. Fire leads to new growth, something bison find hard to resist. On the modern prairie, ranchers practice controlled burns every year, or every few years, to promote healthy new grass for cattle grazing. It would have been a smart strategy for bison hunters; arranging a tempting grass buffet for the bison helped increase the odds that a herd would actually gather in the gathering basin, which made a successful hunt much more likely.

The prairie fires, then, would have been precise, controlled burns in carefully chosen spots, not indiscriminate burning of a whole landscape. Even so, the fires had an impact on the prairie ecosystem.

“Burning of this kind in fescue prairies changes the composition of the grasses & forbs,” Roos told Ars. That doesn’t make the burned area more or less diverse than an unburned area, he explained. “[But] what it does do is create patchiness in the grassland with different compositions, thereby creating greater between-patch diversity. This can be especially important for small animals.”

That means that even a hunter-gatherer society with relatively low population density had a significant impact on the local ecosystem. (Early European estimates, from just after populations had mostly recovered from a 1781-1782 smallpox epidemic, put the average hunting band at about 150 people & a large winter camp at about 2,000 people.) That effect was significant enough, in fact, to find its way into the geological record—which is a key part of how scientists now define the geological epoch called the Anthropocene, in which human activity is a major force shaping Earth’s environment.

Several archaeological finds in recent years have suggested that the Anthropocene began earlier than we first suspected, dating back not to the Industrial Revolution but possibly to the earliest agricultural societies. This “Ancient Anthropocene” model suggests that when those early farmers cleared forests for fields, & when they used fires for cooking & warmth in much larger concentrations than before, they released enough carbon into the atmosphere to have an impact on early Holocene climates.

Of course, it’s not likely that hunters on the Great Plains, burning portions of the prairie to attract bison herds, would have released enough carbon to have a real impact on climate. But this is another sign that humans have been leaving a lasting mark on the environment for much longer than we realized. William Ruddiman, who first proposed the Ancient Anthropocene hypothesis, has also suggested that a more flexible definition of “anthropocene” may be more useful than pinning a firm start date onto an Anthropocene-with-a-capital-A geological epoch.

“My take on this is that our evidence of hunter-gatherer manipulation of their environment (including, potentially, carbon budgets & carbon cycling through fire use) provides greater weight to the ‘fuzzy’ & evolving definition of the anthropocene, rather than a fixed geologic unit of time,” Roos told Ars.

The telltale layers of charcoal also point to a complex, nuanced collaboration between humans & climate to shape how fires impacted the Great Plains several hundred years ago. Scientists who study wildfires often see climate & human activity as opposing forces. For instance, people may burn regularly when climatic forces would lead to few fires, which in turn may help reduce how much fuel is available to burn when an extreme fire season rolls around.

But on the Great Plains, according to Roos & his colleagues, bison hunters’ fires actually amplified the effects of climate on the prairie’s natural fire cycle. Natural wildfires are more likely,  generally larger, in seasons when there’s more grass to burn. & since rain makes the grass grow, wetter decades are, ironically, linked to more burning.

Of the 13 charcoal deposits in the study, six were associated with periods when the climate on the Great Plains took a wetter turn (on a scale of decades). The other seven were associated with shorter wet periods or with much slighter increases in rainfall. In the context of the bison jumps, it looks like the hunters who built & used the drivelines took the opportunity to burn their gathering basins whenever there was enough grass to burn. Thanks to human activity, relatively slight increases in average rainfall had a much bigger impact on the frequency of fires in the area than they would naturally have.

That understanding of how humans, even in relatively small groups, interacted with climate patterns to produce a pattern of fires that in turn shaped an ecosystem holds some lessons for managing grasslands today.

“I tend to think that the past offers general lessons about contemporary problems rather than specific lessons. One lesson from our work is that this landscape (fescue grasslands) can sustain pretty intensive fire use & that fire can be used to successfully manage grazing in this environment,” Roos told Ars. “This is consistent with some of the arguments coming out of Oklahoma State University, where they are arguing for patch burning to manage the grazing patterns of bison & cattle.”

Future studies might shed more light on how widespread the practice in North America actually was of burning gathering basins to lure bison herds.

“Late Holocene bison jumps are found more broadly than just the northwestern Plains. Was fire used as part of those hunting strategies, too?” said Roos. “What impact did this burning have on the fire regimes of the landscapes between clusters of driveline complexes? I mention food webs in the paper, & it would be really great to know what the consequences of this burning strategy were on other plant & animal species.”

Native Food - Jambayla


"Of the varied ethnic groups which cooperated in creating Creole cooking, the French, the last to arrive, are generally accorded the major share of the credit, which they probably deserve (but perhaps not quite as exclusively as may person think). The first contributors to Creole cooking were of course the Indians. The Spanish arrived second, and the Negroes probably third, for slavery had already become well established before the Acadians, driven out of Canada and Nova Scotia, reached what with their aid was to become Creole territory in the second half of the eighteenth century. 

The greater visibility of the Acadians accounts for the remark, in a generally knowledgeable book about Creole cooking: "Among the finest, and certainly the most famous [of Acadian dishes] is jambalaya," which is rather unkind, for while the Acadians have endowed this territory with any number of dishes for which they can be given credit, jambalaya is almost the only one which can be claimed by the Spaniards. It is easily reconisable by anyone familiar with Spanish cooking as a form of paella."

Eating in America: A History, Wavery Root & Richard de Rochemont [William Morrow and Company:New York] 1976 (p. 282)

Friday, February 10, 2023

Native Food - Dryed Meat Jerky

 

People from the Crow Tribe Drying Buffalo Meat. Date c 1830

Native Americans Dryed Meat Jerky

"Jerky...a name derived via Spanish from the native Peruvian "charqui," meaning dried meat. The noun spawned a verb. Jerking meat consists in cutting it up into long strips and then drying these in the sun or at a fire. The practice was widespread among American Indians and among colonists in pioneering days. In modern times jerky occupies a niche in the nostalgic realm of 'trail foods'. "

Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 


Jerky (charqui) is a dried meat product. This sensible preservation method was employed by Native Americans and frontiersmen. Buffalo (aka American Bison) was a popular meat source. Food historians tell us the practice may have originated in Peru. "In South America, where there has been a plentitude of meat for hundreds of years, simple drying traditions survive, at least among the poor. The Native Americans on the arid southern borderlands sun-dried venison and buffalo, and one can still find dried beef in the form of tassajo, which is made with strips of meat dipped in maize flour, dried in the hot sun and wind, then tightly rolled up into balls to be carried easily on journeys. 

The modern American jerked beef" is derived from thin slices of air-dried meat called "charqui." This originated in Peru and was used to preserve excess game after large hunts, though later beef was more usually used. Charqui, a vital food for the western pioneers, was often broken up and crushed between large stones and then boiled before eating."

Pickled, Potted and Canned: How the Art and Science of Food Preserving Changed the World, Sue Shepard [Simon & Schuster:New York] 2000 


"Jerky...Beef that has been cut thin and dried in the sun. The word comes from the Spanish charqui', which appears in English in 1700 as a verb, jerk' than as a noun in the nineteenth century. Jerky, in the form of pemmican, was a staple food among the native Americans on the plains. It is very rich in protein and may be cooked in a soup or smoked, but more commonly it is sold as a 'meat snack' in the form of a thin stick sold at convenience stores and bars."

Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New York] 1999 


"Jerky...a name derived via Spanish from the native Peruvian "charqui," meaning dried meat. The noun spawned a verb. Jerking meat consists in cutting it up into long strips and then drying these in the sun or at a fire. The practice was widespread among American Indians and among colonists in pioneering days. In modern times jerky occupies a niche in the nostalgic realm of 'trail foods'." 

Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 


"Most land travelers...expected to live off the terrain, but took a store of provisions with them by way of insurance. Such provisions had to be light and compact when the traveler moved on his own feet and was his own beast of burden, and from native Americans, north and south, the European explorer learned the virtues of two sustaining and lightweight meat products, pemmican and charqui...Charqui was the South American alternative [to pemmican] and may have originated in Peru as a way of preserving some of the game slaughtered at communal hunts, although when cattle became established beef was more generally used. 

The method was to cut boned and defatted meat into quarter-inch slices, which were dipped in strong brine or rubbed with salt. The meat was next rolled up in the animal's hide for ten or twelve hours for it to absorb the salt and release some of its juices, then hung in the sun to dry, and finally tied up into convenient bundles. It looked, said one German traveler, like strips of thick cardboard and was just as easy to masticate'. When opportunity offered, most travelers preferred to poind the charqui vigorously between two stones and then boil it before eating. The jerked' in jerked beef' is derived from the word chaqui..."

Food in History, Reay Tannahill [Three Rivers Press:New York] 1988


"Fresh meat was always preferable, but fontiersmen quickly accepted the Indian method of turning the dried meat called jerky into pemmican, and thus discovered one of best portable foods ever devised. ..The making of pemmican was an art..."

American Heritage Cookbook and Illustrated History of American Eating & Drinking, Volume 1 [American Heritage:New York] 1964 

Native Food - The Energy Bar - Pemmican


 1899 Depiction of a Métis camp drying bison meat. Library & Archives Canada. Acc. No. 1989-492-2

The Native American Energy Bar - Pemmican

Portable and tasty, this Native American energy bar provided sustenance for travelers. The primary meat was American bison (buffalo). "Most land travelers, except in the great deserts or the frozen north, expected to live off the terrain, but took a store of provisions with they by way of insurance. Such provisions had to be light and compact when the traveler moved on his own feet and was his own beast of burden, and from native Americans, north and south, the European explorer learned the virtues of two sustaining and lightweight meat products, pemmican and charqui [jerky]. Pemmican was ideally suited to the chilly north. It was made by drying thinly sliced lean meat, usually for one of the larger game animals, over a fire or in the sun and wind. The dried meat was pounded to shreds and mixed thoroughly with an almost equal quantity of melted fat, some marrow from the bones and a few handfuls of wild cherries, and then packed in rawhide sacks that were tightly sewn up and sealed with tallow. Pemmican's name came from a Cree Indian word for fat, and its high fat content made it a valuable source of warmth and energy. It was pemmican that sustained the fur trader Alexander Mackenzie during his pioneering journey of 1793, when he became the first European to cross North America from coast to coast. Half a century later Arctic explorers were to be furnished with a refined version in cans, scientifically prepared by Mackenzie's fellow Scot and successor in Canadian exploration, Sir John Richardson. Richardson found that if the neat were slowly dried over an oak fire it improved pemmican's keeping qualities, and that first-grade currants or sugar made an acceptable substitute for wild cherries."

Food in History, Reay Tannahill [Three Rivers Press:New York] 1973, 1988


"Pemmican is the traditional iron rations of the North American Indians, made of dried buffalo or other meat pounded to a paste, mixed with rat and often fruit, especially cranberries, and shaped into small cakes. Carried on hunting trips, it could last almost indefinitely. The term has been take over for a small but rather less ethnic mixture of beef and dried fruit, used as emergency rations by explorers, soldiers, etc., in the Arctic. In origin it is a Cree word, pimikan, based on pimii, 'grease,fat.'"---An A-Z of Food & Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press: Oxford] 2002 

"Pemmican. A form of hard, preserved meat, used by the N. American Indians...The meat, from buffalo, deer, or other animals, was air dried in strips until quite hard, then pounded to a powder and mixed with melted fat. It was usual to mix berries, especially cranberries, but also chokeberries. The resulting stiff paste was packed in skins, inside which it dried to a hard, chewy consistency. Pemmican made in this way keeps mainly because it is dry...Salt played no part in the original drying process, though it might be added later for flavour. The berries were probably also added for flavour, but had a useful effect because of their content of benzoic acid, a natural preservative, which represses the growth of micro-organisms. The fat also helps preservation by sealing the meat from the air. The skin wrapping is not a sterile container because the food is not cooked in it--in fact, the only heating is the melting of the fat--but at least keeps the contents clean. Pemmican was adapted by white explorers to suit their own needs and tastes. In the 1820s the Arctic explorer Sir John Richardson used the malting equipment of a brewery to make pemmican. The meat was dried in the malting kiln and ground in the malt mill. It was mixed with rendered suet, currants, and sugar, and packed in tin canisters. Soon pemmican was being canned in a conventional manner, which safeguarded its preservation and allowed it to be made in a slightly less dry and tough form. It could be chewed as it came, from the can, or made into a primitive stew. Canned pemmican remained a staple food of explorers and mountaineers."

Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson, 2nd edition edited by Tom Jaine [Oxford University Press: Oxford] 2007 


"It seems strange that the original Native American pemmican is almost never mentioned in the diaries and records of migrants on the western wagon trails...Despite the fact that they often took mountain men as guides during the summer months, the godly and respectable migrant seemed reluctant to eat Indian and wild men's food, sometimes with disastrous consequences. The value of the meat in pemmican was in its drying, which concentrated and preserved it, making it portable and lasting. Drying is probably the earliest and simplest way to preserve food, and it is possible that man was drying food even before he cooked it."

Pickled, Potted & Canned: How the Art and Science of Food Processing Changed the World, Sue Shepard [Simon & Schuster:New York] 2000 

Native Food - Squirrels & Stews

 

Native Americans & Squirrels

"Of all the denziens of the Southern woods, none is more common than the squirrel, and the bushy-tailed rodents have been there in great numbers since long before Columbus. Indians roasted them over the open fire or stewed them in clay pots; later, new Americans from Europe and Africa fried them in skillets. Thomas Jefferson and many another Southerner after him...considered squirrel an essential ingredient of Brunswick stew, Kentucky burgoo makers...have always felt the same way. According to most contemporary preferences, the favored way to cook squirrel is smothered in a rich gravy made from pan liquids and flour. The same basic recipe is also used with other small game, such as rabbit and quail."

Southern Food: at home, on the road, in history, John Egerton [University of North Carolina Press:Chapel Hill NC] 1993 


"The origins of Brunswick stew--initially based on squirrel meat, then on chicken or rabbit or all three--are shrouded in mystery. Brunswick, Virginia; Brunswick County, North Carolina; and Brunswick, Georgia, all claim they were the birthplace, either in the 1700s or 1800s. Others credit Britain's Earl of Brunswick, who, visiting the South, discoverd the derivative dish being served to Virginia workmen...Nashville's John Egerton [states]: 'It seems safe to say that Indians were making stews with wild game long before any Europeans arrived, and in that sense there was Brunswick stew before there was a Brunswick."

Smokehouse Ham,. Spoon Bread, & Scuppernong Wine: The Folklore and Art of Southern Applachian Cooking, Joseph E. Dabney [Cumberland House:Nashville TN] 1998 

Native American Foods


Native American Foods

"There were many nations of Native Americans living on the land that European settlers occupied, and they were the object of much curiosity. Something is known of their foodways at the time the Europeans came to America because explorers, naturalists, and travelers often commented on the Indians, describing what they ate, how they dressed, how they sheltered themselves, and what they hunted or grew for food. Native American tribes across the country lived in different ways, but most grew corn, beans, and squashes, and hunted both large and small animals. They gathered wild fruits, nuts, seeds, roots, and plants. Obviously, the wild foods they used depended a great deal on where they lived. The developed grinding and pounding technology to make flour from grains, seeds, and nuts, and to extract oil. They had cooking containers that allowed them to heat foods in liquid, and they had methods of roasting and baking. They also had food preservation techniques and developed portable foods for traveling... Their primary grain, corn, was cooked and eaten 'green' (ripe but not dry)...Dry corn kernels were also parched, roasted until the kernel swelled slightly and dried...The Native Americans also grew beans, which, like corn, were used, both fresh and dried, or sometimes combined with corn and other ingredients in stews. Beans were also cooked, mashed, formed into cakes, and dried for later use. Indians grew pumpkins and squashes, ate them fresh, and dried them. Wild roots, berries, groundnuts (not to be confused with peanuts), pokeweed, persimmons, strawberries, wild legumes, and many other foods were included in the Native American diet...Although there are no accounts written by the Native Americans themselves of what they ate before the arrival of Europeans, a few descriptions of Indian dishes were recorded by travelers and newcomers, and they make it possible to visualize the Native American dishes through white men's eyes."       Food in Colonial and Federal America, Sandra L. Oliver [Greenwood Press:Westport CT] 2005 (p. 128-129)

Native Food - Iroquois/Eastern Woodland

 


Food - Iroquois/Eastern Woodland

"One regular meal per day seems to have been the rule, although early writers record the preparation of two meals among the Huron. An Onondaga informant remembers when some of the older people had no regular meal-time. Members of the family ate whenever they felt like it. A big bowl of soup, however, was cooked in the morning. They usually worked for a while, then came in an ate the soup or corn bread...The meal is usually announced by the woman of the house...The men, as a rule, are helped first, the women and children coming after. The serving in former times was done directly from the pot into bark or wooden dishes, chunks of meat being handed or tossed to those desiring a portion...Wooden spoons or ladles, come of considerable size, were used for dipping and eating liquid foods. These are mentioned frequently by early historians , also the fact that each guest,upon being invited to a feast, was expected to bring his own dish and spoon. Each one ate in silence, either sitting or standing...Anyone coming in at meal-time is invited to eat and is expected as a matter of etiquette to take something."---Iroquois Food and Food Preparation, F.W. Waugh, facsimile 1913 edition [University Press of the Pacific:Honolulu HI] 2003 (p. 46-47)

Native Food - Lenni Lenape

 


Long before European settlement, the Lenni Lenape lived in the area of New Jersey. 

"A great variety of birds and mammals were hunted by the Indians of Lenapehoking; some of these are now extinct or no longer indigenous. In 1612, for example, Captain Samuel Argall and his Indian guides killed bison along the Pembrook River...The most abundant animal remains present in the Indian refuse pits, however, are those of deer, elk, black bear, racoons, turkeys, geese, turtles, fish and mussels...Upon reaching his dwelling, the hunter's traditional behavior was to leave the deer or other kill before the door and enter the house without speaking a word...Sharing meat and other supplies promoted good will and ensured the survival of the group--so long as one person had food, all had food. Indeed, one's prestige was measured not by the amount of goods accumulated, but by the generosity with which one shared with other members of the community, especially the aged and infirm...Indian hunters always provided for the elderly and those no longer able to shoot a bow...Autumn was the usual time for deer hunting, after the harvest had been dried and stored for winter use...More than likely, the returning families also brought fresh venison, skins, nuts, firewood and, and bone grease...In autumn and early winter, nuts of many kinds were available in abundance, and most-fattened, thick-pelted deer, elk, bear, raccoons, and turkeys provided good meat and skins...(p. 261-3) In spring, summer, and early fall, most Indians fished along the river banks and shores...Men, women, and children gathered shellfish which were an important food supplement ...It appears that Indians gathered...freshwater mussels quite regularly from a fairly large area. Some were eaten immediately...It is also probably that quantities of freshwater mussels were gathered throughout the year and deposited in streams near the camp until an especially hot day in July or August, when these shellfish were brought to the campsite in baskets. Spread out on a patio-like bed of rocks, with sun-heated stones beneath, and the strong solar rays from above, the mussels opened, dried, and dehydrated in their shells...People apparently scraped the dried clams out of their shells and stored them in clay pots, leather bags, or baskets, or string the meat together for later use in soups or sapan.(p. 276-7)...The best evidence for prehistoric gardening practices in Lenapehoking derives from archaeological excavations in the upper Delaware River Valley...Corn, several varieties of podded beans, and different kinds of curcurbits or squashes, the Indians' primary cultigens, were planted together. Although anciently cultivated in Mexico and Peru...these plants probably made their first appearance in Lenapehoking in the early part of the Late Woodland period...but may not have become a major source of food until considerably afer A.D. 1300. In time, the Indians grew both soft and hard varieties of maize in coors including white, red, blue, brown, yellow, flesh-colored, and spotted...The most common variety of corn appears to have been maiz de Ocho or eight-row Northern Flint corn...Corn cobs recovered in archaeological excavations from sites in the upper Delaware River Valley indicated that ears were quite small, generally about 3 to 4 inches in length...Beans including common pole beans...and runners, were planted in the same place as corn, but some weeks later so that the growing corn stalk might provide a support for the vines...Curcurbits, including several varieties of summer squashes...and certain winter squashes...including pumpkins, were planted in or about the corn and bean hills...Many garden vegetables were eaten day by day as they ripened, but others were stored for use in the fall and winter...Indian women preserved some corn by simply peeling back the husks, braiding the ears, and hanging the clusters from house poles and roof supports. Most of the remaining corn was boiled, dried, removed from the cob, and stored in skin bags or bark containers. Beans were boiled for a few minutes and then dried for preservation. Pumpkins and squash were sliced into thin rings after after which a stick was inserted through them and they were hung up to dry in the sun..."

The Lenape-Delaware Indian Heritage: 10,000 BC to AD2000, Herbert C. Kraft [Lenape Books:NJ] 2001